Delicacy or not?

The 400-Year-Old Secret: Why Icelanders Eat Poisonous Shark. An Acquired Taste That Defined a Nation. 

The Greenland shark is a protected species and is not intentionally hunted. The shark consumed by Icelanders today is sourced from Greenlandic trawlers, who catch them incidentally in their nets while fishing for other species.

When you think of a delicacy, you probably picture something rare, refined, and undeniably delicious. In Iceland, however, one of the nation’s most traditional foods is best described with words like “fermented,” “ammonia-heavy,” and occasionally, “the worst thing I have ever tasted.” We’re talking about Hákarl (pronounced HOW-kartl), the pungent, chewable piece of history made from the mighty Greenland Shark.

This isn't just an oddity for tourists; it’s a living testament to the tenacity and ingenuity of the Icelandic people.

The Greenland Shark is a truly awe-inspiring creature. This magnificent animal can reach lengths of up to 20 feet and holds a remarkable record: it is the longest-living vertebrate on Earth. Scientists estimate that some individuals can live for over 400 years. Determining the age of the Greenland Shark was a recent scientific breakthrough, as its body is composed only of cartilage, lacking the bones typically used for age-dating. Researchers successfully figured out its extreme longevity, up to 400 years, by analyzing the stones found within its eyes.

Here’s the catch: the meat is poisonous when fresh.

Unlike most fish, the Greenland Shark doesn't have a urinary tract. Instead, high concentrations of urea and trimethylamine oxide (TMAO) build up in its tissues. These chemicals act like a natural antifreeze, helping the shark survive in the near-freezing Arctic waters, but when consumed fresh, they break down into toxic compounds, including high levels of ammonia, which can cause severe illness, confusion, and even be deadly.

The solution the Icelanders developed is a marvel of culinary chemistry: fermentation and time. No one knows when, how, or why people started eating the shark. If you are hungry enough, you are willing to try anything

The traditional, multi-stage process for creating Hákarl is as follows:

1. The Pit Stop: The shark is gutted, beheaded, and buried in a shallow, gravelly pit. Heavy stones are piled on top to press the toxic fluids out of the meat. This fermentation process lasts between 6 and 12 weeks, depending on the season.

2. The Drying Shed: Once fermented, the meat is cut into strips and hung in an open-air drying shed for a further four to five months. The wind and cold air help cure the meat, creating a hard, brown crust on the outside and firm, pale flesh inside.

This process neutralizes the harmful toxins, transforming a dangerous meal into a safe, protein-rich source of food that helped generations of Icelanders survive the long, harsh winters.

Brace for the Scent

Hákarl is famous for its intense, pungent smell—often compared to cleaning products, spoiled cheese, or even worse by some celebrity critics. Chef Anthony Bourdain famously described it as “the single worst, most disgusting and terrible tasting thing” he had ever eaten.

It is typically served in small, firm cubes on a toothpick. Many first-timers pinch their nose before taking a bite, as the smell is far stronger than the flavor. The taste itself is often described as chewy, rubbery, and intensely fishy. The local custom is to chase the cube down immediately with a shot of Brennivín—Iceland’s signature caraway-flavored schnapps—which is essential for washing down the lingering taste.

Today, Hákarl is rarely eaten out of necessity but remains a powerful cultural artifact. It is a mandatory part of the Þorrablót, a midwinter festival where Icelanders gather to celebrate their ancestral traditions and unconventional cuisine.

Whether you love it or hate it, Hákarl is more than just a dish; it’s a metaphor for Icelandic resilience and a bite of four-hundred-year-old history. Are you brave enough to try it?

A visit to the Shark Museum at Bjarnarhöfn is an optional stop during our tour ofthe Snæfellsnes Peninsula.